Guide to Richmondshire's Dales

Richmondshire encompasses a contrasting array of dales, the Norse word for valley, each leading one off the other, the main dales being Wensleydale and Swaledale. Wild and lonely fells look down on lush winding valleys.

Tranquil meadows are defined by drystone walls, hidden waterfalls cascade into deep wooded glens, while small villages clutch to the hillsides and bustling market towns provide a focal point for trade and activity.

The making of the landscape

From the times of early settlers, who made forest clearings for their stock, man has shaped the dales landscape. Evidence can be seen of cultivation terraces on the steep hillsides, particularly near Reeth in Swaledale and Castle Bolton in Wensleydale. Remains of defences and fortifications are still prominent with earthworks at Maiden Castle and Stanwick.

Many villages and topographical names have originated from Angles, Saxon and Norse settlers. A few interesting examples are Askrigg (the ash ridge), Birkdale (the birch valley) and Grinton (the green enclosure).

From the 12th century the great Abbeys of Jervaulx and Easby were founded. The monks established large farms in the dales, by clearing trees, scrub and draining marshes and the Jervaulx monks are said to have bred the Swaledale sheep and introduced the first Wensleydale cheese for which the area is famous.

After the Dissolution of the monasteries land passed into private hands and gradually farmhouses were constructed. It was at this time that many of the drystone walls were built followed by the Enclosure Acts of the 18th century which encouraged landowners to take over what had previously been common land.

Leadmining too has been an important industry in the dales. Scars from the workings can be seen today, softened by vegetation over the last century, and ruined smelt mills and peat stores remain as testament to a once great industry.

A variety of natural habitats

Everywhere there are fields and roadside verges brimming with wild flowers. Sweet cicely in the spring, meadow cranesbill, dog daisies and meadow sweet in the summer, giving way to scabious and harebell. The area is particularly famous for the flower-rich hay meadows, some of which have up to fifty different species of wildflowers. These are now becoming rare, so local and national conservation bodies are working with farmers and landowners to ensure their continued survival by encouraging traditional farming methods.

The moorland edges provide a popular breeding ground for the curlew, while dippers and grey wagtails frequent the rivers. Lapwings can be spotted throughout the area and the distinctive 'ok-ok-ok' call and whirring flight of the red grouse is frequently heard before the bird is seen.

A walker's paradise

Many footpaths are long established routes having originally been used by pack horses, drovers or as lead and mineral roads. Footpaths can take you through woodlands, beside rivers and waterfalls, through meadow and farmland or past ancient lead workings to high on the moor. The most famous routes which pass through the area are the Coast to Coast walk which proceeds down Swaledale and a section of the Pennine Way.

An inspiring landscape

Thomas Girtin and his friend and contemporary J.M.W. Turner made painting expeditions to capture from nature the waterfalls, riverside details and the many castle and abbey ruins. Travelling on horseback from valley to valley Turner made hundreds of sketches in his composition book before translating them into some of the most exciting watercolours of his career. A series of Turner seats, at viewpoints used by the great artist, are located throughout Richmondshire from where you can contemplate scenes little changed since he recorded them.

Now film and television companies are attracted by Richmondshire's timeless quality. The unspoilt acres of dales scenery, the fine historic buildings and the quaint character of many villages make the area an ideal setting for period drama.

Practising as a vet from nearby Thirsk, Alf Wight was inspired to write his All Creatures Great and Small stories about the now famous vet, James Herriot. He spent his honeymoon in Wensleydale and developed a long lasting affection for the dales. The films and the television series were set in this idyllic countryside bringing into people's homes a taste of life in the dales as portrayed in the many stories. Small villages assumed the role of market towns, hotels became country clubs and village halls were television stars overnight. The period set of James Herriot's veterinary surgery has been preserved complete and can be seen in Richmondshire Museum.

Local traditions and events

Dramatic events take place throughout the year with theatre, folk music, street fairs, craft events, mock civil war battles and fireworks. For two weeks each year from the Spring Bank Holiday the Swaledale Festival offers a varied programme of exhibitions. music, performing arts, craft and local events.

Agricultural shows and sheep fairs, which are an essential part of the farming year, see dalesmen competing for awards which in turn act as a mark of quality when their stock are sold at market.

For relaxation you will find local people taking part in games of quoits, brass band concerts, fell races, or sheepdog demonstrations; all of which make an exciting day out for participant and spectator.

For more information

Maps, tourist guides and information, plus a local bed booking service are available at the Tourist Information Centres in Richmond and Leyburn.

Richmond Tourist Information Centre
Victoria Road, Richmond, North Yorkshire DL10 4AJ

01748 850252 (+44 1748 850252)

01748 825944 (+44 1748 825944)

Leyburn Tourist Information Centre

Thornborough Hall, Leyburn, North Yorkshire DL8 5AB

01969 623069 (+44 1969 623069)

01969 622833 (+44 1969 622833)